Izmir is a big city

Izmir is a big city, not a tourist resort so there's pretty much the same to do in Izmir in the Winter as there is in Summer. 

Izmir is very different to other places in Turkey, it can in no way be compared to Istanbul but it's also very different to Ankara. Although Izmir is Turkey's third largest city, it doesn't feel like a city at all. There are different districts all divided up and each with its own distinct features. (There are nine metropolitan districts - Balcova, Bornova, Buca, Cigli, Gaziemir, Guzelbahce, Karsiyaka, Konak, and Narlidere) The city surrounds the bay of Izmir and old style ferries cross regularly to the different areas throughout the day. It's a very cosmopolitan, lively and modern city. It's funny, because if you were to see some areas, it doesn't live up to it's name ''Beautiful Izmir'' or the pearl of the Aegean, but it does have something very beautiful about it, a certain charm that you can't help falling in love with.

With palm-tree lined boulevards and swanky eateries, Alsancak is one of the most popular areas in Izmir with both tourists and Turkish alike. The Kordon, which is a famous street running parallel to the coastline, has lots of lovely cafes where you can sit and watch the world go by and enjoy a drink whilst watching the sunset over the bay.

Alsancak is also where the Kültürpark is located, where an International Fair, festivals and dozens of exhibitions are held every year. The International Fair is my particular favourite, last year we went 3 times in a week - there's so much to see and do as the area is huge, there are always lots of stalls and a World Kitchen where you can eat cuisines from up to 15 different countries and watch live entertainment. If you are planning to come to Izmir, it's worth checking out what's happening when you're there.

When I first went to Izmir on a day trip, the thing I noticed most is that not a lot of people speak English, especially the older generation. It was near impossible to find someone to help us with directions (which you really need, because it's so big it's very easy to get lost) although cruise ships dock for the day and you'll see a number of tourists wandering around, it's not really a big tourist destination.

The only thing Izmir doesn't have is a beach, but the beautiful resort of Cesme is only an hour away and there you'll find some of the best beaches in the area. Cesme can easily be reached by bus from either of the two bus stations in Izmir. There's lots of things to keep you entertained in Izmir though, spa centers, an Aqua Park, A Wildlife park, shopping centers, ancient sites and there are lots of museums in Izmir, some of the most popular ones are:

The Archaeological Museum, near Konak Square, houses a superb collection of antiquities including the statues of Poseidon and Demeter which, in ancient times, stood in the Agora.

The Ethnography Museum, located next to the Archaeology Museum, contains folkloric artifacts, which include a fine collection of Bergama and Gordes carpets, traditional costumes and camel bridles.

The Ataturk Museum is situated on Ataturk Caddesi in an old Izmir house used by the founder of the Turkish Republic. It exhibits photographs of the leader as well as some of his personal effects.

The Fine Arts Museum, located in Konak, displays the works of famous Turkish painters.

The Seljuk Yasar Art Museum is a private museum on Cumhuriyet Bulvari with a collection of 20th-century Turkish art.

The Odemis Archeological Museum is about 60 km east of Izmir and displays regional artifacts.

The Natural History Museum in Bornova attracts as a natural reserve of the Aegean Region landscapes' historical preservation.

There's a big castle called Kadifekale (literally meaning "the velvet castle" in Turkish) on top of a hill which you'll be able to see from most points around Izmir, it was built by Lysimachos, a "successor" (diadochus) of Alexander the Great, later a king (306 BC) in Thrace and Asia Minor. It can be quite a trek up, but you can go by taxi or by bus from Konak. There are a few beggars, old women trying to sell silk and other items up there, and street children which I've heard can be annoying.

The Asansör Elevator is a good place to go for great views of the bay of Izmir. The elevator was built in 1907 to ease the access between Mithatpaşa and Halilrifatpaşa streets, which happens to be a great problem due to height difference between these two streets. 155 steps had to be climbed to reach Halilrifatpaşa Street, which is 50m high. The two quarters are united with the elevator tower. Now it's a good place to watch the sunset over the sea, there's a restaurant at the top where you can have dinner or a drink.

Although Izmir is quite built up, there are lots of wildlife areas scattered around. Just 15 km's outside of Karsiyaka is where you'll find Bird Paradise, an area of coastal marshes and salt fields that is preserved as an important bird sanctuary. Aswell as birds, many mammals, fish and reptile species take refuge in the delta and you may even see rabbits, foxes and wild boar on the hills. This year they built a big Wildlife Park in Sasalı, with the aim of trying to educate the public and raise awareness and respect towards nature, it's quite far away from where you're staying but if you do have a spare day it's worth a visit, it's very well laid out and you can see a large number of different animals there.

Another good place to visit for the day is Balcova Teleferik. It's a beautifully peaceful area in an otherwise busy city. You take a cable car 1000 meters up a mountain in Balcova. When you get to the top, there's a long road with many cafes and restaurants and a few shops. At the end you will see a picnic area where you can have your own bbq. You don't need to bring anything, there's a small supermarket there where you can buy fresh salads, vegetables and all kinds of different meat for your BBQ. The staff from the supermarket bring a BBQ set to your table.

My favourite area is probably Kemeralti. It's basically Izmir's version of the Istanbul Grand Bazaar. You can find the mystical vaulted and domed shops of the past, side by side with the contemporary business centers, shops, theaters, and cafes, with alluring opportunities for all kinds of wonderful shopping. This Bazaar is the right place to find all kinds of handicrafts, souvenirs, carpets, silver, clothing, hubble-bubbles and leather clothes....and you can quite easily spend half a day getting pleasantly lost in the Kemeralti market, as you stroll through the massive area it covers.

My favourite part of Kemeralti is the Kizlaragasi Han, which is an Ottoman caravanserai built in 1744 by Haci Beşir Ağa. The inn has always been lively because of it's close proximity to the harbour. The Kizlaragasi Hani, which was originally an inn for travelers coming from the East carrying silk and spices, will allow one to witness the mesmerizing ambiance of Ottoman-style life. Today the well-preserved caravanserai shelters many souvenir shops situated side by side. It is a real pleasure to drink a cup of tea at the cafe in Kizlaragasi Hani and think that this was where the Silk Road ended in the past.

However, the bazaar has lost it's importance not only by the changes in transport caused by the technology but also due to the movements in economic life in the 18th and 19th century. After the accommodation in the inn had come to an end, Kizlaragasi became a place where the goods where landed and stocked.

It was restored im 1888-1933 and today it is used as a touristic bazaar where you can find many shops selling handicrafts, souvenirs, carpets, silver, clothing, hubble-bubbles and leather clothes.

It's like stepping back in time. It has a very unique ambiance, It reminds me of something out of Aladdin, dark and mysterious with little stalls and shops full of treasures waiting to be found and many shaded corners to sit and sip a cup of Turkish coffee or apple tea. It's another great area for people watching, with people from all different walks of life. Men with native costumes walking around selling old spicy Turkish sweets give the bazaar a feeling of history. 

You can buy so many beautiful things there from nargiles, Turkish instruments, handmade jewelry and lots of other souvenirs. It's not expensive either, I often buy beautiful necklaces and bracelets there and the prices are very reasonable. Stop in one of the old Turkish cafes and have a Turkish coffee or an apple tea, it's a lovely way to pass the time. There are hundreds of eateries tucked away all around the historic bazaar, every step you take you will smell the aroma of something yummy, a tip is to try the kumpir (jacket potato) in Kemeralti - they are huge and the best I've ever had!

The shopping opportunities in Izmir are endless, it almost rivals shopping back home...almost. There are numerous shopping centers dotted around the different areas of Izmir. The most popular being: The KIPA Center, Forum Bornova, Carrefour, EGE Park, Agora, and Konak Pier. and Optimum, a huge mall completed with an Ice skating rink. Alsancak also has one of the best area for shopping in Izmir with lots of exclusive shops. There are two main areas, one is the main shopping street where they have the high street names such as Ambar, Mavi Jeans, Colin's and Collezione.

The other area located nearby is much more elite, set in a neighbourhood of many criss crossing streets with fashionable cafes dotted around - you'll find shops such as Clarks shoes, United Colors of Benetton, Mango, Lush, Diesel, Zara, Mothercare, Replay, Tommy Hilfiger, Guess, a million other shoe shops, D&G... and you won't see a genuine fake in sight.

The nightlife in Izmir is sooo much good. Unfortunately not many of the bars/clubs have websites and they are not very well advertised on the internet in English. If you have a wander around Alsancak, you'll find so many niche little bars with different themes; rock, salsa, jazz etc. especally down the little side streets off the main shopping road. It has a really great atmosphere.

Low Down...
See:
- Konak Square, clock tower, fountain and palm trees...
- Alsancak, small streets with a lot of nice bars in old Greek houses, where you can have tea or a beer and try several waterpipe flavours
- Kadifekale, old castle on the hill which it's named after
- Agora, remains of the Roman Empire
- Izmir's International Fair
- Check out the Asansör Elevator in the Konak area, it has one of the best views of the city
- Visit one of the many museums around Izmir like the Archaeological Museum

Do:
- Take a cable car up the Balcova Teleferik, great views of Izmir, and a perfectly Peaceful place to enjoy a BBQ
- Walk around the very lively Alsancak and have a drink on the Kordon. It has great views over the bay
- Go shopping at Kemeralti: A big bazaar, where you can buy clothes & gifts and stop to sip a Turkish tea
- Kizlaragasi Hani: An old kervansaray where you can shop for carpets and jewelry
- Visit one of the many Thermal Spa's located in Izmir
- Go shopping at one of the many Shopping Centers
- Take a trip on the ferry to other parts of Izmir, a cheap but great way to see the city
- Visit the beautiful sea side resort town of Cesme, less than one hour's drive from Izmir